Eat this: Shiitake mushroom empanadas

Shiitake mushroom empanadas: In keeping with the trend of designer tapas in subterranean restaurants, Lakeview's Chilam Balam is a basement-level dive with an upscale pedigree. Formerly co-owned by Chuy Valencia (a Chicago wunderkind who recently competed on Bravo's "Top Chef: Texas" and who is in talks to open a new eatery down the street), this cozy Mexican kitchen features an eclectic menu of small plates that changes seasonally and relies on fresh ingredients from sustainable local farmers. However, one dish on this month's menu stands out as a prime example of homegrown creativity and finesse: the shiitake mushroom empanadas. Served as a pair with a side of slightly sweet and tangy salsa verde, the flaky, corn-based crust of the empanadas soon gives way to a succulent filling of Asian-grilled veggies and Wisconsin jack cheese. Delicate in its presentation but rich with flavor upon the very first bite, this simple yet satisfying dish is the perfect starter for a tapas-style meal. 3023 N. Broadway, 773-296-6901; www.chilambalamchicago.com

— Leah Pickett