Cookbooks

The new cookbooks of the season teem with passion, quirkiness and flavor. Here are our favorites, perfect for the cooks on your list (including you). (Bill Hogan/Chicago Tribune)

The Art of Living According to Joe Beef
A Cookbook of Sorts

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By Frederic Morin, David McMillan and
Meredith Erickson (Ten Speed Press, $40)
Believe the title: This boisterous book is as chock-a-block with whimsy as Joe Beef, the celebrated Montreal eatery from chefs Morin and McMillan. It tracks the evolution of three restaurants, tucking witty tales (Canadian trains, building a smoker) among the recipes (quirky, playful, classic, liberally seasoned with Quebecois panache), and served with spoonfuls of the chef's sass.

Bi-Rite Market's Eat Good Food
A Grocer's Guide to Shopping,
Cooking, and Creating Community through Food
By Sam Mogannam and Dabney Gough
(Ten Speed, $32.50)
How many of us, having gotten lost in some super-size supermarket, have silently prayed for an old-time grocer to magically appear and show us around? Meet Mogannam, owner of San Francisco's Bi-Rite Market. He roams every aisle, from bakery to meat to produce to fish, telling you what to buy, how to store it and what to do with it. Ninety recipes, too.

The Cheesemonger's Kitchen
By Chester Hastings (Chronicle, $35)
This rich volume delves deeper than the cheese plate, using the star ingredient in every course from soup to entree and on through dessert. Hastings, a trained chef and now cheese monger at Joan's on Third gourmet market in LA, delivers 90 recipes in which cheese lends accent (roasted squash anointed with pecorino) or stars (ricotta fritters with chocolate). And the cheese course? He'll direct your choices there as well, with savvy tips on wine, accompaniments and design.

Cook's Illustrated Cookbook
2,000 Recipes from 20 Years of
America's Most Trusted Food Magazine
(America's Test Kitchen, $40)
Some books impress by the sheer audacity of their ambition. Backed up by the magazine's famed mission to test every recipe relentlessly until it is the best it can be, this nearly 900-page volume lands with an authoritative wallop. Its scope boggles. Flipping through, you're struck by the idea: Everything is here. Everything. What's more, the why and how of recipes are explained in a way that sets the home cook up with the confidence to wade right in, no matter the dish.